Ingredient Spotlight: Bakuchiol

2 & 1/2 minute read

There is a  skin care ingredient that has been increasing in popularity in recent years – especially when it comes to anti-ageing skincare products like  eye creams, moisturisers and serums – and it’s called Bakuchiol. Perhaps you have heard of it? Bakuchiol’s main claim to fame is that it is considered to be a ‘natural alternative’ to Retinol – an exciting concept, indeed!

What is Bakuchiol?

Bakuchiol oil is extracted from the seeds of the Psoralea Corylifolia plant, a wild species commonly known as babchi. The babchi plant is native to India and Sri Lanka and has been used for centuries in Indian Ayurvedic and traditional Chinese medicine due to its antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties.

(image credit: Sagar patel from Getty Images; source: Canva)

Why do we need a Retinol alternative?

Retinol (also known as Vitamin A) has long been considered the 'holy grail' of anti-ageing ingredients, together with Retinyl Palmitate (a chemical compound combining Retinol with Palmitic Acid). When applied topically to the skin, Retinol is converted into an active compound called Retinoic Acid. This acid has a small molecular structure which allows it to penetrate the outer layers of skin and reach into the deeper layers where collagen and elastin reside. It helps boost collagen and elastin production and increase cellular turnover, promoting smoother, more youthful looking skin. Apparently, there is more than 70 years' worth of research proving the anti-ageing properties of Retinol!

However, while Retinol is considered to be an anti-ageing powerhouse, it can be too harsh for some people and can have some negative side effects, including:

• irritation – as a potent exfoliating agent, Retinol can cause thinning of the skin, dryness, redness and irritation, especially for people with sensitive skin
• sun damage – some studies indicate that Retinoid ingredients are sensitive to light in that they can act as ‘photosensitisers’ when exposed to sunlight, creating free radicals which can lead to skin damage and premature ageing - there is concern that Retinyl Palmitate, too, when applied to skin in the presence of sunlight, may speed up the development of skin tumours and lesions
• concern for pregnant women – experts recommend that pregnant women avoid using topical Retinoid products as high doses of Vitamin A during pregnancy can be harmful to the development of the foetus

There's nothing wrong with using skin care products that include Vitamin A, especially if you are not sensitive to that ingredient. But it might be prudent to only use Retinol products designed for night time use. In fact, some skin care brands limit their use of Retinol and its variations to products only used at night, such as designated night creams, to avoid the potential hazards associated with Vitamin A and exposure to sunlight - but this is not always the case, so it pays to check the label.

The good news - skin care benefits of Bakuchiol

In 2014, the International Journal of Cosmetic Science included the first published study which tested Bakuchiol’s similarity to Retinol. That small study showed that Bakuchiol targeted several cellular pathways similar to those targeted by retinoids. A more robust study was published in 2018 which backed up those findings.

The general consensus appears to be that Bakuchiol offers similar anti-ageing skin benefits as Retinol but without the common side effects. Bakuchiol's benefits include:

• stimulating collagen production
• improving cellular turnover
• improving elasticity and firmness
• reducing pigmentation and brightening skin tone
• reducing fine lines and wrinkles

The even better news

Bakuchiol is less irritating and gentler on skin than Retinol and has anti-inflammatory properties. This means its powerful anti-ageing benefits can be enjoyed by more people, including those with sensitive skin, pregnant women or anyone concerned about sun damage due to photosensitivity.

If you're interested in skin care products with Bakuchiol, Naturally Safe Cosmetics recommends the following products from some amazing Australian natural and organic skin care brands:

• INIKA Bakuchiol Serum - Natural Retinol Alternative

• LAMAV Bakuchiol 4% Natural Retinol Alternative
• {SIMPLE as that} 1% Bakuchiol Serum
• Eco By Sonya Eye Compost Apricot Eye Cream

Sources: cbc.ca; bakuchiol.net

Disclaimer: Naturally Safe Cosmetics and the author are not health professionals. Any information or advice in this article is of a general nature only and not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease. For medical advice regarding your own personal circumstances, we recommend you contact your GP or other healthcare professional.